My side.....Ghana.....and stuff.....

Wednesday, 25 January 2012

Football and Health.... the only way

Yesterday the Black Stars played Botswana in the African Cup of Nations. Today I have not spoken to anyone who didn't watch the game. Ghana won 1-0, with the captain being given a red card, and so, causing quite the controversy.

Football (aka soccer), is everywhere here. Daily, or even hourly there are game being played on a dusty field or the large stadium. Jerseys of any era are being sold out of every second shop, and street signs advertise which games are being shown tonight.

I am enjoying the health promotion program that FIFA has launched in Africa to help educate people on a range of health issues. I wonder when the next game is on and there is a game-deciding goal shootout, who will be thinking about vaccinating their children? Or how many people will blame poor goalkeeping due to missing your medication? If there is one way to make people listen in Ghana, and I assume the rest of Africa, you get football involved.

HAPPY AUSTRALIA DAY EVERYONE!

Tuesday, 24 January 2012

A Ghana Food Demonstration


It’s the African stereotype – malnourished children. And just like fulfilling the expat stereotype of living in luxury and partying with all the other expats in town every weekend, I am working right among the stereotype.

Childhood malnutrition in the Upper East Region is 27%, present in close to a third of all children under 5. The national average of Ghana is 13.9%, the differences between the northern regions of the countryclearly showing the disparityRemembering our own backyard, I found an old study in the Northern Territory that indicated a 20% occurrence of malnutrition in Aboriginal children aged 0-2 years, well above the criteria for needing a nutrition intervention.

Studying malnutrition in Australia, I learnt about ‘kwashiorkor’ – malnutrition caused by a deficiency of protein. The lack of protein causes fluid shifts; odema, or puffy feet, and, as it gets worse, face and body. It is a global term, but here I have found it is a Ghanain word – from the Ga ethnic group. It means “the disease of the displaced child”, or the curse of the second child, because it occurs when a baby is weaned off (high protein) breast milk, to the local diet of maize and/or other low protein starchy staples, often due to the arrival of a second child. They quickly become malnourished, and swollen with painful fluid, because there is little protein-containing food being fed to them. As the name suggests, it was, and still is, considered a curse of the child, and this is often difficult to overcome. Often preventing recovery.

To address the low protein diets, districts have been holding food demonstrations. I attended Karaga district’s (northern region), where a group of Mother to Mother Support Group (MtMSG) participants and other community based volunteers had gathered to learn how to increase the protein content of their local recipes for the children.

Are you thinking stainless steel benchtops, ovens and stovetops for everyone, MasterChef style? We were in the health facility compound, cooking Ghana style. Over charcoal cookers, with no tables, there was much food being prepared.

The scene of the food demonstration in Karaga

Maize is the staple in the Northern Region, with some millet, sorghum and rice available, all fairly low in protein (11%). To start with, the mother’s learnt how to make koko (porridge) with added soya flour (35% protein). The ratio of 4:1 was used so it wouldn’t affect taste, and be too costly. Soya is available to some households, it is grown as a cash crop; it yields a lot of money at the markets. Which brought about a problem: These people can’t afford to keep the soya for themselves and their families. If you can get better money for soya, then you sell it and buy a larger portion of maize as it will stretch further and fill more people for longer. But it is low in protein. Soya flour was also added to banku (fermented maize/cassava), and the making of soya milk was demonstrated. If this is actually used, as some mothers described, by keeping small amounts for themselves after selling at the markets, it could improve their children’s health remarkably (and easily).
Making banku with added soya flour

Dawa-dawa is fermented locust beans. This is high in protein, and can be used as a stock flavouring as well (instead of the dreadful Maggi/Onga stuff they sell here). This was added to some soups and jollof rice.
Dawa dawa before it is ground


Moringa is a plant that is said to cure all! Sort of like Ghana’s version of wheatgrass, or goji berries. The claims of ‘more calcium than milk’ have been proven false (the calcium it contains is not available to the body), and no actual human studies have been done, yet needless to say, Ghana really needs greens, so adding moringa to the soups and stews is encouraged.
Groundnut soup with moringa added 


Alifu is another green vegetable, as well as brau that was added to traditional soups that generally has no vegetables at all. These are readily available at markets, which made me happy because it seemed like a solution that could be adapted by the villagers.
Alifu and brau cut up ready to be used - this man  was one of the only men to participate, and did well, the women loved to have a friendly dig at him. Particularly when he made sorghum banku - sorghum is pink


Tubani is steamed bean cakes. These are a healthier version of kosee  and served with a sesame seed paste that was delicious. Steaming them in plastic bags made me slightly uneasy. They made both of these with added soya flour to boost the protein.
Steaming the bean cakes

Tubani and sesame paste
Kose, with the 4 types of koko















The aim of the demonstration was for the attendees to take the training back to their groups and communities and in turn, teach these people, to ensure the new methods are taken into the home. I sincerely hope that some of these practices will continue, to help prevent the occurrence of malnutrition. There is never one cause for malnutrition, with many social and cultural factors involved that are difficult to address. It does always seem to come down to money however, and simple sounding things to us, such as giving your malnourished child an egg from your chickens rather than selling it, is not always possible. But getting the food right in the first place looks at preventing malnutrition, and hopefully bringing about small changes in the overall food supply for the benefit of everyone.

The plan for 2012 includes starting demonstration gardens, which is a fantastic integration, hopefully I will be involved in this too.

Wednesday, 18 January 2012

QUIZ

1. Who puts ketchup and mayonnaise on salads?
2. Who thinks you can get a train to Australia? *
3. Who does not perforate their toilet paper?
4. Who has only 1 tarred road in the country’s biggest state (/region)?
5. Who refers to a power blackout as ‘no lights’?
6. Who provides only urinals in public places for women?





Ah women (or did I go into the men's?) urinals. Much debate is had as to which direction you stand... the talk continues....
7. Where did Bono recently visit? **
8. Who doesn’t eat desserts because they are too sweet, but takes condensed milk and sugar in their tea?
9. Who thinks all white people look the same? ***
10. Where is providing me with a wonderfully enriching experience at the moment and I should not make fun of their culture?


* Based on 1 person’s assumption
** Article of Mention
*** This is quite possibly more than just one country, but I’m talking from my own experience, and can’t talk about places I haven’t been or investigated....

ANSWERS:
1. Ghana
2. Ghana
3. Ghana.... you get the idea!
and 10. This was just to make sure you know I am thoroughly enjoying myself, and am not always as cynical as I may come across!!

Monday, 16 January 2012

A Tale of 2 Cities


Ghana is a country divided. The wealth and excess is concentrated in the south, near the capital Accra. It shows all the indicators of Ghana now being classed as a Middle Income country. Being in the North is like being forgotten. I did not really notice this until, after 5 months living in Tamale (in the north) I visited Accra for work. Things of note;
  • Traffic!!! If you ever come to Accra you will notice the traffic. Work colleagues leave home at 4am to get to work on time. This is the norm. I ride my bike 10 minutes down the road and think that is hectic! Everyone drives in Accra, it is apparently a status thing, the train services have shut down because no one was using the rail system, everyone wanted to show they could afford a car. Even if it means congestion to the point of such delays.
  • Fancy cars; The most expensive cars you can think of are in abundance in Accra, colleagues telling me that the import tax for these cars is almost the same as the actual cost of the car. Who is buying them?
  • It is as good as being different countries – many people in Accra have never been to Tamale, and I’m not sure why. I guess there is no reason to sacrifice good food, the coast and interesting things to do for the near-desert. We are talking about a large town that is 600km away – less than Newcastle to Brisbane! This included the Ghana High Commission in Canberra!
  • Jungle! There are banana and coconut trees everywhere. Beats the burnt fields of the north. If only Ghanaians had used coconut in their cooking – some sort of flavour?
  • Scammers; never a positive thing unless it means cheaper wares in the long run (in which case this was not happening), they are everywhere in Accra. From taking your hand on the street and never letting go, to asking your name and coming back with something embroided ‘just for you’ it is relentless and sure to make someone snap over time.
  • Car window shopping; you can buy anything you want when you stop at a traffic light. There are thousands of random things that people will shove through the window when you are simply wondering what lane we are supposed to be in. back massagers, santa hats, toilet paper, eggs, maps, you name it, it’s sort of like shopping at Aldi but without detouring.

In Accra you can get anything you want. I stocked up on some delicious foodstuffs, and gorged on cheese while I could. Mmmm cheese. I did amazing things like see a live band, eat interesting and new food (fried eggplant with goats cheese and honey!?!?! Amazing), saw the ocean, got hassaled every time I sat down, caught taxis, and was overwhelmed. Oh, and did some work. It’s a great place to visit, and made me so happy to come home to Tamale with quieter streets, no (or fewer) scams, slightly more anomimity, a single main street, and only a slow burn through the wallet rather than the bushfire it ravaged down in Accra.
Tamale - burning everything during Harmattan!

Accra - gourmet food..... aaaahhhhhh




Sunday, 8 January 2012

Silly Mingers

“Hey! White Man!” Ghanaians affectionately call me White Man every day. For various reasons; to get my attention, to say hello, to make me buy their wares and to make sure I remember I am white....lucky! Children get super excited when they see you, I wonder just who teaches them to call out to all white people and when? The diversity of Ghana shines through with this greeting, as it depends on where you are as to what you are called;

Twi (Accra) & Fante (Cape Coast area) - Obroni
Waali (Wa) - Nysala
Ewe (Volta region) - Yavoo
Dagbani (Tamale) - Sillyminya (yes..... pronounced commonly as ‘Silly Minger’)
Silly Minger spotting - easy on the dance floor - the ones who can't dance...
The other way to get your attention in Ghana is to hiss. Like a snake. Ghanaians are petrified of snakes. I stood at my front gate for a good 10 minutes once yelling, knocking, shouting for our security guard to come and open the door (yes, good security!) but as soon as I hissed he was over in a shot, sssssssssssssssssssssssssss! Hard to get used to, but very effective. Try it with friends and family, probably not advisable to Aussie wait staff or other workers.

My colleagues do all their shopping from the car window. When I’m in the car I find it fun to see how they go about their chores. Pulling up in the Landcruiser on the side of the road hissing at store owners to come to the window and bargain the price of their bread is quite acceptable apparently.
I love these discrepancies between our cultures, and have taken a minute to note some words down for all those of you who come and visit me (!)....

Good = Fine
EVERYTHING is always ‘fine’, no need for any other description. When I answer ‘good’ sometimes it’s just too confusing. Stick with Fine.
Run out = Finished
This can go for anything; “That meal is finished”, “The shop is finished”, “music has finished”, “my friend is finished”..... Because food running out is the same as death....
Sometimes you can use the term ‘it is not der’ as in “the food, it is not der” but finished is much more succinct.
Take it easy = Slowly slowly
in Twi; Ka-kra ka-kra. in Dagbani; Biela biela.
This is a good answer to most questions too, similar to ‘fine’

It's the small cultural differences that I love. This was on the side of the road

So biela biela i wrote this post, I think it is fine, and now it is Finished.